Images of Jigs and Fixtures used in my Model Engineering.

Simple use of the rotary table to index tapped holes

for securing spokes – Burrell Traction Engine.

Using the drill chuck to loosely hold the taper tap to

ensure concentricity – Burrell Traction Engine.

Simple jig to ensure all spokes are drilled

the same – Burrell Traction Engine.

Simple jig to ensure all spokes are drilled the same –

Burrell Traction Engine.

Wheel building fixture. 3/4″ steel plate for rigidity. Hub held securely in the

middle. Wheel rim clamped concentric to hub – Burrell Traction Engine.

Rivet holes drilled through the spokes to ensure alignment – temporary 2BA bolts used until wheel riveting completed – Burrell Traction Engine.

Reglus drill jig. Extremely expensive bit of Swiss kit. Highly versatile, amazing quality. If you are drilling shafts etc for taper pins, split pins etc., it is superb. See their website. Occasionally for sale on ebay!

Not a jig or fixture but best thing I ever made for the Burrell – a stainless grate with removable stainless bars.  Years old and no degradation to the bars at all.

Machining the slots for stainless grate with removable stainless bars.  Burrell.

A standard use of a fixed steady on the Myford lathe.

Another view of the fixed steady – Double Diagonal Engine

Saturday 25th July 2020. Decided that the Clubs drill jig for the 20 x 10 rail that we use was getting a little tired.  The end result was as pictured above.  The drill guides are from 0.5″ silver steel hardened by heating to red and quenching in cold water.

Drill Jig from the back.  The length of the short piece of bar rail can adjusted to give a small gap between the two lengths of adjoining rail to allow for expansion. The short piece of bar rail can also be removed for the drilling of fishplates.

Tool to remove injector cones without damage. Brass body, reamed hole diameter of cone. Slitting saw used and cross bolt to clamp onto cone.  Please ignore left hand hole – completely unnecessary!